From The Times

February 21, 2009

Iran: the friendliest people in the world

Beaming smiles, gel and a joke about lavatory brushes and weapons of mass destruction - Iran overturns all expectations

The metal door to the synagogue swung open and a small boy skipped across the courtyard. He looked puzzled at the three people who stood before him, two of whom were clearly not Iranian. He led us up some steps to the temple, where I slipped a skullcap on to my head. A lady came towards us, smiling. “Are you Jewish?” she asked.

“No,” I replied. “Sorry.”

My friend Annette and I went inside anyway, past a table of food laid out for Passover, and sat at the back as an elderly man read from the Torah in front of eight others.

I'd never have guessed that my first time inside a synagogue would be in Tehran, but Iran is full of surprises. It has a fundamentalist leadership that many in the West believe to be as nutty as a box of pistachios. But it also has a population of 65 million, most born after the 1979 Islamic Revolution (which culminated in the return from exile of Ayatollah Khomeini 30 years ago this month), and far removed from the dour and menacing stereotype often portrayed on the 10 o'clock news. The ordinary Iranian people are by far the friendliest and most welcoming I've met in more than 20 years of travelling.

Our ten-day trip took us from traffic-snarled Tehran 600km (370 miles) south across the Zagros Mountains to Shiraz and the magnificent ruins at Persepolis, started by Darius I in 515BC and destroyed by Alexander the Great in 330BC. (I have never been to a historical site where the past felt so approachable.)

Then we headed back north to the capital via Esfahan and the holy city of Qom, passing near the controversial nuclear facility at Natanz, which looked more like a car assembly plant. I assume, though, that most car factories aren't protected by banks of anti-aircraft guns.

Our guide for the journey was the ever-smiling Mr Sassan, a font of knowledge and always ready with a new story. At the start of the trip I believed all he told me, but as the week got longer his tales got decidedly taller.

We learnt that it paid to sit down when he started to talk, for with Mr Sassan there was no such thing as a quick skip through 3,000 years of history and the conspiratorial goings-on as empires rose and fell, invaders came and went.

“Now this is a sad one,” he'd say before recounting a tale of humble beginnings, love, jealousy, power, betrayal, exile and death. And when we seemed incredulous he'd look slightly hurt. “No, it's true, I'm telling you,” he'd reply. He was also adept at scooping handfuls of nuts and fruit for us from displays in open-fronted shops, walking away waving his cane shouting “Free samples, they don't mind,” as we scurried off. He was also a Mr Fixit.

In Shiraz, after guiding us to the tombs of the classical poets Sa'di and Hafez - as Shakespeare is to us, so are these to Iranians - he tracked down the best local faludeh, a wonderful frozen dessert flavoured with rose water.

The Mausoleum of Shah-e Cheragh has supposedly been closed to non-Muslims for the past three years, since a mullah objected to the revealing outfits of some Spaniards, so we headed through a winding, covered bazaar to its back entrance for a peek through the gates.

Yet, rather than shooing us away, a young caretaker welcomed us inside on the proviso that Annette put on a chador (an enormous cloth that covered her from top to toe) and that we didn't go inside the main shrine.

The large courtyard was busy with worshippers paying their respects to the remains of Sayyed Mir Ahmad, who died in the city in AD835. The caretaker asked where we were from. Inglistan? “Ah, welcome to Iran,” he beamed. Could he, though, ask us a few questions? What is the difference between England and Britain, he wondered, and whereabouts was Charles Dickens buried?

Another gracious encounter was with Mr Abbas and his wife in the dusty, backwater village of Imamzadeh Bazm.

We had planned to camp for two nights with Qashqai nomads, but a drought had delayed their 500km migration from the Gulf. Instead of 1,700 families on the grassy plain, we found just one; the women making crisp, thin bread over a stove, the men smoking opium in a tent next door and then coming back to fiddle, glassy-eyed, with a gun that they use to scare away wolves.

Back in the village, Mr Abbas's B&B was basic but clean and comfortable, and his wife's cooking was the hit of the holiday: aubergines mixed with yoghurt and mint; mushroom and barley soup; pickles; lettuce dipped in vinegar; and, for breakfast, tea and fruit followed by cheese with chopped walnuts.

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But, above all, it was the people we met who made this trip for us. Groups of teenage lads - many in trendy T-shirts and elaborately gelled (and, in theory, illegal) hairstyles - always offered us big smiles and a “Salaam” (Hello). After establishing our nationality, there would be an invitation to pose for a photo with someone's mobile phone. Annette and I would beam away while everyone else adopted an authoritative stare into the lens.

“How-are-you-I'm-fine?” was the standard opener from laughing students. What did we think of Iranians, they all asked. Did we think Iran was dirty? What about the Danish cartoons of the Prophet Muhammad? Was it right that Iran shouldn't be allowed nuclear power? (No mention of nuclear weapons.)

And what about America? “They think we're all terrorists,” said a laughing, leather-skinned loo-brush seller from his kiosk outside Tehran's main bazaar. He waved several of his products towards us: “Look! Weapons of mass destruction!”

Their simple acts of hospitality were a continual delight - women offering tea as they tended a relative's grave by a mosque, a man inviting us for dinner after we asked to photograph him on a bridge, several people giving us their phone numbers in case we ever needed translation help.

The women didn't shy away from us. Far from it. Yes, they wore drab, shapeless overcoats and headscarves, the latter often pushed back to show plenty of hair.

And tourists must cover up too, although Italian tour groups we encountered had their own fashionista definition of what was acceptable. Annette found wearing a headscarf in 35C heat thoroughly annoying and couldn't wait to remove it the moment she stepped on the London-bound plane.

Our experience in the Tehran synagogue came on our last day in the country. Annette and I said goodbye to the tiny congregation, then returned outside to Simi Alley and bought sweet lemons from a fruit shop. We went to the swankier north of the city for pizza and carrot juice, then explored the Shah's former palaces alongside dozens of picnicking families.

“Stop and have some tea with us,” we were asked more than once. “Please take some almonds. Tell people in Britain how we really are.” I promised I would.

OTHER VIEWS OF IRAN

One of my favourite areas of Iran is around Shiraz. In addition to the wonderful gardens, the tomb of the poet Hafez is a must. Iranians recite his poems by heart around the tomb and you can begin to appreciate their love and reverence for their poets. The awe-inspiring site of Persepolis is near by, and around Firuzabad you can watch Qashqai nomads moving their flocks south - Neil McGregor, director, British Museum

Esfahan is a gem of the Islamic world: sitting in a café on Naghsh-e Jahan Square, looking out at the Safavid architecture, puffing on a hubble pipe, is to inhale centuries of civilisation. I once saw an old man sheltering from the sun under one of the famous stone bridges and singing a haunting mystic song that reverberated under the arches and sent shivers up the spine - Damian Whitworth, Times Feature Writer

One day when I was a child my father drove us through a crack in the mountain wall and around the back of Tochal, the 3,900m peak overlooking Tehran. The valley was flanked by steep mountains. Because we were nearer the Caspian Sea to the north, it was an ocean of blossom: pink, white, yellow - cherry, apple and apricot. The valley opened into a meadow with a couple of makeshift cafés. We got out of the car and smelt the view, taking in the ancient, sweet perfume of the valley. You could hear the cool wind, a subliminal hum of bees, and nothing else save distant waterfalls, high up the mountainside, where snowfields were melting. “This,” my father said, “is spring.” I hope to make it back to that valley to eat the cherries, apples or apricots one day - Darius Sanai, magazine writer who spent childhood in Iran

I lived in Iran in the 70's for 3 and a half years and the people were wonderful - generous and great company. They always made me feel welcome in their homes. Lovely people! I visited all the places mentioned in the article and agree with all the comments. Shiraz was my favourite too.

Janice, Bishops Castle, Shropshire UK

My friend and I are planning to drive from Scotland to Pakistan for my sisters wedding. Really looking froward to spending some time in Iran!

Ahsan, Glasgow,

mr. aaron ,a previous poster says why this freindliness has not been channeled into productive projects. however iran has become one of the fastest growing nations on earth and has achieved great knowledge in the field of science.from space technology to stem cell research.

yl, miami, usa

As a british who have many iranian friends, I've to say they are really cool ppl and so friendly!

alex, manchester, uk

As an Iranian-Canadian living in Iran now I do want to agree with the mostly positive comments HOWEVER, do not pat us Iranians too much on the shoulder. Iranians need to give up their pride to start change. no matter what anyone says ALL of us are responsible for the mess that is our government

Maziar Taleshi, Tehran, Iran

I don't think anybody questions Iranian friendliness. The question is simply why this friendliness is not channeled into more productive and morally virtuous projects than state sponsored terrorism, nuclear armament, and holocaust denial conventions.

aaron, jerusalem, israel

I travel often to Iran and it's one of the most beautiful places I've ever been visited. Everything is memorable: the cuisine, the landscapes, the people and their culture and their immense pride in it.
Conversely, it's the people that the West like to describe as 'friends' that are the worst.

George Saladin, Dubai, UAE

A Scot, Mark Beaumont, cycled round the world last year in record time. When asked on his return who were the friendliest people he met on his long journey , he said. 'Those in Iran.'

nick, Glasgow, Scotland

Photos inside Iran. enjoy!

http://conflictiran.blogspot.com/2006/04/inside-iran-city-life.html

Mohammed, London, UK

It's heartening to hear that the Iranian people are people just trying to live their lives... We are the same here in the US... Hopefully the old leaders will retire and the young will take over and we can all live in peace... Imagine...

Dan, Virginia, US

Thank you and everyone who appreciates Iran's great culture and beauties, we Iranians are longing for an appreciative look, I hope this is be an indicator of the "change" in the view of western governments to Iran,

Ali, Tehran, Iran

Iran was the biggest surprise I ever had while traveller. There I found not only the friendly people and great monuments you describe -but also the girl of my life.

Pedro, Braga, Portugal,

Iran has some of the most beautiful women in the world =)

Kazuki, Tokyo, Japan

No-one doubts the natural beauty that can be found across the globe can be found in Iran, and nobody supposes that universal human love and kindness to be markedly absent from your average Iranian, but your reporting evades all sense of conflict, too. Try *living* in Iran for a while.

Elan Miller, Jerusalem, Israel

exellent article
I also encourage everyone to visit Iran,you will see how diffrent it is from what you expect,Iranians are lovely they respect every one and say different things from what their government say.visit Iran you will see yourself !

alex, Sydney, Australia

I have been to Iran several times, and agree entirely with the author that the people are genuinely delightful. Sure, it`s not McTravel - but if you want an authentic travel experiece; rich in culture, history and scenery then this is a great option.

Karl, Manchester, UK

People all over the world are basically the same when it comes to their wants and desires. It is governments that just love to stir things up, and they frequently get help from a willing media.

James, Texarkana, USA

Dirk - I consider myself and many others I know to be really nice people. Shame our government is appalling! One of those global paradoxes again!

Andy, Alton, UK

Funny how those comments slamming the 'biased' Western media don't mention the famously unbiased Iranian media.

'Critical thinking' indeed.

I'm sure the Iranian people are as friendly as claimed, but some posters need a reality check.

Ryan, London,

Pre-Revolution, aged 16, I was relocated to Tehran and my family's new home.

So I'm sitting in this big American Jeep, unhappy and bewildered, on the way from the airport when a girl on a bus next to us in the traffic hands our "minder" a flower.

For me.

I STILL ask myself "What happened there?"

Ethelred, London, UK

I was in Iran in '00, and our group got caught in a storm out on the steppes. We were preparing for a miserable night sleeping in our truck when a man riding a moped appeared on the horizon. He invited us all to dinner and let us sleep in his house - 12 strangers who didn't speak a word of persian.

Fred, Stockholm, Sweden

It's nice for once to read a geniune article about a so called 'axis of evil' country. I spent a few weeks there and was overwhelmed by the hospitality and inquisitveness of the people. Don't judge a country on it's politicians! There isn't always a great choice to pick from - e.g. US/UK

Matt, Cheltenham, UK

Having spent time in Iran, recreational and business I agree the people are very friendly and outgoing, I was never subjected to political points of view except from officials, typically customs and immigration staff.

George Bright, Seven Lakes, U.S.A.

I have never been in Iran but traveled around the world and met some Iranians outside their own country. The friendliest people I met were Americans and Germans.

jirikoo, Prague, Czech Republic

My girlfriend is an Iranian living in Shiraz. What I can tell you, ordinary Iranian people are so friendly and honest ever met. Being a Black European and enjoying this friendship is some thing that many western might thing as an impossible. Please visit this lovely, beautiful and full of artefacts

Evancy-H, Putte, Belgium

I found this video on the net:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waMBt6EnsT8

Made by Americans who went to ski in Iran 'prepared for anything, from rocky pistes to terrorists'.
They finished the video quoting Hannes Schneider: 'If everyone went ski-ing, there would be no wars...'
Good film

Rhys Jaggar, Leeds, UK

I've never been to Iran, but most people I've met in my many travels are friendly all over the world. There are of course extremists, but the rest of us have to live by the system the government puts in place. I hope the previous readers comments are correct.

Allan, Gloucester, UK

When I was at school, we were occasionally taught a little 'critical thinking'. That is, being able to see past newspaper headlines and propaganda. To get to the truth one must question obvious assumptions. The negative comments on this story could do with a little critical thinking.

Mark, Edinburgh,

i too find iran and Iranian people so friendly and so in touch with thier identity.They have a fantastic sense of humor and a hunger for anything western.

ashoob cook, geneva, switzerland

Absolutely true and Syria brilliant also. Ignore the incessant propaganda; try it.

John , epsom,

I travel to Iran regularly for business reasons. Iranians are far more polite than many Europeans who I work with. Having said that, I also believe that Brits are the nicest of all Europeans.

Jose Martinez, Madrid, Spain

... actually I've always found that the friendliest people I meet when travelling - africa, middle-east, US - are the Dutch. Sorry.

Phil, London,

JohnW, Manchester, UK


As if your leaders are any more sane......they aren't.

Aaron Shannon, Austin, TX, USA

Stu in Dublin...don't be so pompous. Prior to your comment there were (by my estimation) 15 supportive comments and three anti, with a few somewhere in the middle. Why do you choose to portray this as "hate & bigotry winning out again"?

Ron, Norwich, Norfolk

Re "They are also in desperate financial trouble... but seem to have loads of dosh to spend on arms". Funny, I could say the same thing about the United States.

Mike, Hartford, CT, USA

As the saying goes: 'people don't make wars, governments do...'

chris, st austell,

I love that so many commentators on this article won't allow themselves to accept the possibility that Iranians can be friendly and polite. Hate and bigotry win out again. It's often easier to believe in tried and tested stereotypes. Iran is one the best travel experiences I've ever had.

Stu, Dublin, Ireland

Thanks for your intersting article Will.

There's much more to see in my home country, Iran, from the mountains in north west, to the beautiful beaches on Caspian, ski resorts on north of Tehran, the desert in the middle and a lot more of historical sites.

Keyvan, Sydney, Australia

Yes, curiously, Iran is one of the only Muslim countries to have a substantial Jewish population and a member of Parliament.
They are also in desperate financial trouble and with the falling price of oil it will get worse and worse but seem to have loads of dosh to spend on arms.

Victor M, Cricklewood, London

Thanks for redressing an uneven balance. I recently visited Tehran for the first time in 30 years. I was, once again, delighted by the people and equally delighted that the media preconceptions were ill-founded. Iran has depths absent from some islamic countries I've worked in. Well done.

MacLean, Dubai,

I wholeheartedly agree and would like to recommend a book, illustrated by a friend of mine and a great source of comfort and culture; Persia in Peckham - recipes form Persepolis by Sally Butcher. It won the Times best cookery book of the year last year, and is more than a cookbook.

Nick, London, UK

At John. And if we remove our warmongers here in the west. The people of Iran would sleep happier in their beds at night.

As Ana wrote stop pretending to sleep. The west did more evil to that country then they did to us.

Fir, Amsterdam, NL

Thank you very much for telling the truth about my beloved country. And for all the people who refuse to accept the reality about Iran I offer a saying in Persian:

You cannot wake up a person who is pretending to be sleeping.

Please just open your eyes to the truth and stop being spooned info.

Ana, Tehran, Iran

i have met some wonderful iranians in the UK, they are here because they can not live in there own country, but they are beautiful people, inside and out, lets hope that these people can get rid of the mullahs and religious fanatics, and turn iran into a beautiful place, its a beacon of hope for us

kay, london,

I agree, Alex and Dirk. If only those oh-so-charming people could do something positive for the world by getting rid of their insane mullahs and then elect a tolerant pluralist government then we could all sleep happier in our beds at night.

Contradictions, indeed.

JohnW, Manchester, UK

Let's hope that Iran joins the European Union as soon as possible. Hamas and Hezbollah could form a unity government with the Greens.

Joe, New York, US

Excellent article and a change from the politicised propaganda we are usually fed by lying western leaders and their compliant media. Iran is not perfect and has its own challenges. The readers expressing their opinions should look inward to the state of their own nation and leaders they elected.

Ajaz, Delhi,

I'd say it's funny. In the United States, the old generations who favored segregation, embraced racism and who supported strict morale and religious values, are now going the way of the dinosaurs.

I imagine that the Iranian youth see this same behavior. I think it's good for the world.

Joe Q Public, Raleigh, United States

In dorms at uni there are many Iranian guys and girls and they're normal people. Some are shy and religious, some are party animals; mainly an extremely polite and happy people!

Most of them as they were educated hated the hangings and such and they always spoke of the youth shunning such old ways.

Alex, London,

Excellent article-we need more things like t0 counter the propagada images presented to us in political agendas. The Iranians I have met have been lovely people-can't say that about some others who play a prominent role in the Middle East conflicts.

David P Hall, Bangkok, Thailand

I'm sure many Germans living in Nazi Germany also welcomed foreigners w/ broad smiles & steins of refreshment in the mid 30s. However, that didn't change the fact that they and their government inflicted immeasurable pain, suffering, and death Europe later. What the point of this propaganda piece?

Joe, Haddonfield, NJ, USA

In general, people in the Middle East are extremely polite and open. If it weren't for the large number of radicals, anywhere over there would be a great place to live

Alex, Buffalo,

One of those global paradoxes - how really nice people can throw up really appalling governments.

Dirk Bruere, Bedford, England

Wonderful article,

Please keep in mind that the geographical location referred to as the Gulf must be accurately represented by its true name, the Persian Gulf.

Saeed Tasbihsazan, Adelaide, Australia

Having worked in Cairo recently, I would add Egyptians to the list of 'friendliest people in the world"

Duncan Truscott, Calgary, Canada

An amazing place, I Spent some time in Isfahan, found a guide and saw incredible sights, history came alive. I agree about the friendly nature of the people also. Its strange,I felt much safer walking the streets in Iran than I do in the UK.

Chris, Middlesbrough, UK

When I was visiting Iran, we took a seat on the Tehran subway. A young man sat in the seat in front of us, then turned around an apologized for having his back towards us.
The Iranians are the most genteel, polite and friendliest people I have ever met.

Tim, NYC, NY , USA